I’ve been to some pretty wild places in my travels across Africa, but nothing quite prepared me for the experience I had at the Akodessewa Fetish Market in Lomé, Togo. It’s not just the largest voodoo market in Africa — many say it’s the largest in the world. And honestly, the moment I stepped into that space, I understood why.
Let me be real with you: this isn’t your typical tourist market. There are no colorful souvenirs or freshly roasted corn on the side. What you’ll see here is a full display of dried animal parts, skulls, monkey heads, crocodile skins, chameleons, powders, herbs, charms, and even items you probably can’t identify unless a voodoo priest tells you. And yes, I mean real animal remains.
Why I Went There
Like many people, I had seen videos online — short clips of voodoo ceremonies, masquerades that seemed to float in the air, and stories about people who claim to have received spiritual power through rituals. Some of it felt exaggerated, but I’ve always believed that if something sparks your curiosity that strongly, you need to go see it for yourself.
So I flew into Lomé, the capital city of Togo. The market itself is located in the Akodessewa district, and it wasn’t hard to find once I asked around. Most locals know it, and surprisingly, they speak about it with a lot of pride.
What I Saw Inside
The market is a mix of open-air stalls and shaded areas under large tarpaulins. The moment you enter, you’re greeted by rows and rows of spiritual items laid out with intention. It’s not random. Everything there has a purpose — from protection and healing to revenge, fertility, wealth, and spiritual connection.
One thing I noticed immediately is how deeply spiritual the atmosphere felt. This isn’t a show for outsiders. It’s a real, functioning spiritual hub where people come to solve real problems. I watched locals speaking to traditional healers and voodoo priests, describing their problems and asking for help. Some were given herbs, others got charms. And all of it felt very sincere.
The priests themselves wear markings, robes, and beads. One of them explained to me that voodoo exists everywhere in the world. It’s not tied to one location. He said, “You can be in Europe or America, and if you do the right thing, the spirits will still hear you.”
Misconceptions and Real Talk
Now let’s be honest. Voodoo is one of the most misunderstood belief systems in the world. Thanks to movies and media, a lot of people think it’s all about black magic, curses, or some evil stuff. But being there changed that perspective for me.
The people I met explained that voodoo is about balance, healing, and connection to nature and ancestors. It’s how many West Africans deal with spiritual issues, emotional problems, and health. Yes, some of it might feel strange to outsiders, but it’s rooted in culture and belief that goes back hundreds of years.
Of course, there are ethical concerns. Some people question the use of animal parts. And I get it. But for the people who practice voodoo, these things are sacred, and the rituals are done with purpose. It’s not just about belief; it’s about tradition and identity.
Tips if You Want to Visit
Be respectful: This is not a zoo or a place for jokes. It’s sacred to the people there.
Hire a local guide: Someone who speaks the language and understands the culture can help you navigate and explain what’s happening.
Ask before filming or taking photos: Some areas or items are not meant to be recorded.
Come with an open mind: If you arrive thinking it’s all fake or weird, you’ll miss the depth of what’s really happening there.
Cash is king: Bring CFA (West African currency). Most stalls don’t accept cards.
Final Thoughts
Visiting the Akodessewa Fetish Market was one of the most eye-opening experiences I’ve had. It challenged what I thought I knew about spirituality, culture, and belief. Whether you believe in voodoo or not, you can’t deny the powerful energy in that space.
It’s a place where people don’t just come to buy items; they come to buy power — spiritual power, healing power, protective power. And that makes it more than just a market. It’s a living museum of African tradition, belief, and mystery.
If you’re ever in Togo and want to see something that’ll stay with you forever, go to Akodessewa. Just don’t go expecting entertainment. Go ready to learn.
Location: Akodessewa Fetish Market, Lomé, Togo Best Time to Visit: Early morning to midday Language Spoken: French, Ewe (some English with guides) What to Bring: Camera (with permission), cash, water, open mind
Watch the full documentary here:
Feel free to share your thoughts or experiences in the comments below if you’ve ever visited a place like this!
This is not just a travel article but a survival guide, a story, and a big shout out to everyone who’s ever gotten lost trying to find something that even Google doesn’t recognize.
If you’ve ever tried to go somewhere that isn’t online, you’ll understand this frustration.
That was the case with Kofa Dam, there was no location tag, no reviews, no blog post, nothing. It was just one or two random mentions online.
We decided to go see the Kofa dam, we decided to take the road less traveled and trust me, that road no smooth at all.
Let me dive into how it all happened.
We weren’t told that it was going to be really difficult to locate, we prepared, gassed up, packed snacks, charged all devices (because content must enter), putting our faiths into Google Maps.
After typing “Kofa Dam” and getting zero results, we started suspecting that it wasn’t going to be an easy one. But we still moved.
We drove into Kofa village, parked beside a small provision store, and approached some elders and okada riders.
You know that feeling when you are asking questions and people are staring at you like you’re speaking an alien language? That was our situation that very day.
I remember asking a man, “Abeg you sabi where Kofa Dam dey for here?”, sounding really confused, he gave a response after staring at us for about a minute, “You sure say you sabi where you dey go before una disappear?”
We saw another woman along the road and this was her response, “I never even hear that name before o, I no sabi am at all.”
That moment was when we understood that the journey was eventually going to turn to a scavenger hunt.
We asked at least six people and the answers they gave didn’t even help us reach our destination. Some even said we were supposed to pass a small bridge. Others said we should turn back and try another village.
To be honest, at some point, I started doubting if the dam even exist.
Since Google Maps had abandoned us and the locals weren’t sure, we decided to trust our instincts, satellite view, and follow water channels that were showing faintly online.
We tried tracing the path gradually like we were explorers, every time we see signs of farming or water, we would stop to check and ask questions before moving again.
After hours of trial and error, moments of frustration we were finally able to locate the Dam.
A calm stretch of water surrounded by sloping earth, shrubs, and a deep silence that’s hard to describe. We parked, stepped out, and just stood there.
There were no signboard to welcome us, no crowd, no commercial or anything. It was just raw, untouched nature and the cool and calming wind and the sound coming from the water.
It felt like finding treasure in the middle of nowhere, “that kind scene wey you go wan snap picture put for frame.”
I took the exact coordinates of the dam before leaving to serve as a guide for people who would be visiting or would love to see and know where this Dam is located.
Kofa Dam Coordinates: Latitude: 9.218108 / N 9° 13′ 5.188” Longitude: 7.242993 / E 7° 14′ 34.776”
KOFA {SULEJA} DAM LOCATION
If I would be honest, Kofa Dam not your usual typical easy access spot. Here are a few challenges we faced and should be ready to experience:
Network Coverage: You might enter areas with poor signal, it is advisable to download maps and coordinate screenshots before you move.
Zero Online Presence: Google does not recognize this place, you will have to rely mostly on coordinates or first hand guide like this one.
Unclear Local Directions: Many people nearby do not even know the name as “Kofa Dam.” So instead of asking by name, try describing it as “The Big water body that was built to store water.”
Bad Roads: The road are not too friendly. If you’ll be going during the rainy season, it is going to be more difficult and if you even ask me, I’d tell you that it’s riskier and not advisable.
No Facilities: There are no toilets, no food vendors, no umbrellas. It’s just nature, so prepare accordingly.
Kofa Dam is a raw, functional beauty and here’s what you’ll see:
A wide water body used mainly for farming irrigation and sometimes fishing.
Surrounding green spaces and farmland.
Absolute quiet environment, good for reflection, meditation, or even mini-picnics only if you’ll be going prepared for that.
There are no shops, no guides and no entrance fee.
It was very difficult locating this Dam and yes, low-key, we did consider turning back. But to be honest, it was worth it. Absolutely.
Kofa Dam may not be the most famous location, but that’s what makes it special. If you’re someone who loves adventure, nature, or just finding quiet places that are not yet viral, this is your sign to visit.
Now that you know how to find it, how to prepare, and what to expect, I hope your trip would be more smoother than ours. And when you go, ensure that you enjoy the breeze and maybe help someone else find it too.
And if you’re not familiar with the roads, it is advisable to try going with someone local or be ready to ask questions with confidence.
If you are expecting to get a tourist resort vibe, just adjust your mindset because this place is not Obudu or Lekki Conservation Centre.
“Na person wey waka go find out say road no too far.”
Have you ever been trapped in Lagos traffic for what feels like a lifetime and thought, “If only I could just cruise past all this wahala on a boat?”
LAGOS
Let me tell you a fact for free, Lagos wasn’t always about gridlocks and honking danfos. Before the days of yellow buses and ride apps, the real expressways of Lagos were its waterways. Lagos was never meant to be a city of endless traffic jams.
lagos
Growing up, I heard older people say things like, “Eko Akete, ilu omi” meaning, “Lagos, the land built on water”, “Eko aró mi s’ále” meaning “Lagos, where I lay my paddle.” I never really understood this until I embarked on a journey to Lagos to witness and explore the waterways firsthand.
Long before the current hustle and bustle in the city of Lagos, the city thrived on a vast network of waterways. From the peaceful Lagos Lagoon to the historic Badagry Creek, boats and ferries ruled transportation, linking communities and fueling trade.
But somewhere along the way, these lifelines of the city faded into the background. Today, many Lagosians see water bodies as nothing more than scenic backdrops or neglected spaces. However, beneath these rippling waters lie forgotten stories of booming trade, colonial exploits, and a once thriving transportation system that could have saved Lagos from its daily traffic nightmares.
So, what really happened? How did Lagos go from a city built on water to one struggling with chaotic road congestion?
In this article, we’ll explore how boat rides are not only changing the way Lagosians commute but also shaping the city’s economy, environment, and overall lifestyle. Whether it’s the promise of a quicker journey, an exciting adventure, or a vision for a more sustainable future, Lagos’ waterways are evolving and their impact is undeniable.
Lagos is known bustling heart of Nigeria, it is a city where land meets water in a dance of movement, commerce, and daily life. The waterways of Lagos have long been a lifeline for the city, weaving through its many islands and coastal communities. Historically, these waters were essential for trade, fishing, and transportation, serving as a natural highway long before urbanization brought an influx of cars and road networks. The waterways connected neighborhoods, provided economic opportunities, and formed an integral part of Lagos’ identity.
However, with the rapid urban expansion and increasing population, the city’s road network has struggled to keep up. Lagos, known for its notorious traffic congestion, has pushed residents to seek alternative means of transportation. This is where boat rides have begun to revolutionize the way people move around the city. What was once seen primarily as a means for fishermen and traders has now evolved into a structured, modernized transport system.
urban lagos
Beyond just transportation, Lagos’ waterways are now playing a growing role in tourism. Boat rides have transformed into a leisure experience, with scenic routes offering breathtaking views of the city skyline, luxury cruises catering to high-end clientele, and waterfront destinations springing up as vibrant social spots. From Ikoyi to Victoria Island, from Lekki to the bustling jetties of Makoko, boat rides have injected new life into the city’s aquatic landscape.
The waterways of Lagos were not just a means of transport but a lifeline for trade, communication, and social interactions. Markets and trading posts were strategically located along riverbanks, allowing traders to bring in goods from neighboring regions. Popular waterfront markets, such as those in Epe and Makoko, thrived because of easy access to water transport. Goods such as smoked fish, fresh produce, and locally made crafts were easily transported from one area to another.
For daily commuters, water transport was essential. Before the rise of bridges and highways, Lagosians relied on boats to travel between islands. Workers, traders, and students all made use of the waterways, making it a fundamental part of life in Lagos. Even government officials and colonial administrators used boats for official trips, as waterways provided a more reliable route than the often flooded or undeveloped roads.
In many ways, the historical significance of Lagos’ waterways set the stage for their modern transformation. While the methods and speed of travel have changed, the importance of water transport remains undeniable. The same waterways that once carried wooden canoes and trading ferries now see high-speed boats and luxury cruises, proving that while the city evolves, its reliance on water transport remains as strong as ever.
A few weeks ago, I decided to visit the renowned one-billion-naira beach house in Lagos, a luxurious retreat managed by one of the most distinguished tourism and hospitality companies – Boat Naija.
BOAT – NAIJA
Boat Naija has made a name for itself as a leading boat rental and cruise service in Lagos, catering to both locals and tourists with a variety of aquatic experiences, including boat rentals, cruises, and exclusive water-based events.
CHIAZOR DANIEL – CO FOUNDER, BOATNAIJA
The company initially set out to address challenges such as theft, scams, and the struggles investors faced in the maritime industry.
BOATNAIJA
Today, Boat Naija has not only solved these issues but has also redefined waterway tourism in Lagos. With its commitment to excellence, innovation, and top-tier hospitality, the brand has become a dominant force in the market, it was something I had the privilege of experiencing firsthand.
ILASHE
Walking along the tranquil shores of Lagos, one discovers Ilashe Beach; a hidden paradise that is home to some of Nigeria’s most exclusive and luxurious beach houses. Accessible only by boat, this secluded retreat provides the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
The Ilashe beach started with only about ten beach houses, today, there are over a hundred beach houses.
ILASHE BEACH 2
The beach houses in Ilashe range from modern architectural masterpieces to cozy tropical retreats, each designed to provide the perfect blend of comfort and nature. With private pools, lush palm trees, and stunning ocean views, these beachfront properties attract the elite, celebrities, and anyone seeking a premium getaway. Whether it’s a private party, a weekend retreat, or a corporate event, Ilashe’s beach houses redefine luxury and tranquility.
Over the years, Ilashe has transformed into a premier destination for those seeking to indulge in Lagos’ coastal lifestyle. Unlike the crowded public beaches, its exclusivity makes it a preferred choice for intimate gatherings and high-end tourism, offering a serene escape from the city’s usual hustle.
ILASHE BEACH
Experiencing all of this without being told, I’ve come to realize that more people are beginning to explore Lagos from the water and honestly, it makes perfect sense. The view of Lagos from the waterways is truly unique. Known for its fast-paced and energetic atmosphere, I had assumed a boat ride would carry the same intensity. But I was completely wrong. The experience was incredibly peaceful, and the city looked entirely different from the water. It was a refreshing, mind-blowing perspective that I never expected.
I recently discovered that you can take a boat ride all the way from Benin Republic and other neighboring countries to Lagos, Nigeria, using the waterways, thereby completely bypassing the usual traffic congestion that Lagos is known for. To be frank, at first, I found it hard to believe but it’s absolutely true.
The experience is nothing short of extraordinary. The journey offers a fresh perspective of Lagos, one that is far removed from the usual fast-paced, chaotic city life. The scenic views, the calmness of the water, and the seamless travel made it a completely different way to experience the city, one that challenges the common perception of Lagos as purely crowded and hectic.
Private individuals are redefining the narrative of tourism in Lagos and Nigeria, introducing innovative experiences and fresh ideas at an impressive pace. It’s exciting to witness this transformation, as it proves that Lagos is more than just a hub for business and daily hustle, It is also a destination for exploration, relaxation, and unique adventures.
One of the standout innovations leading this change is Boat Naija, which is reshaping how people experience Lagos by integrating the city’s waterways into its tourism landscape. Through their services, more people are discovering the beauty of Lagos from a fresh perspective, making the waterways an essential part of the city’s evolving tourism story.
The future of tourism in Lagos is becoming increasingly promising, with the waterways playing a significant role in its transformation. If you are yet to explore Lagos from the water, consider this your invitation to experience a unique and breathtaking side of the city.
GANVIE is frequently referred to as the “Venice of Africa.” It is a remarkable floating village situated on Lake Nokoué, near Cotonou in southern Benin. Ganvie is recognized as the largest of its kind on the African continent with a population of over 40,000 people, this extraordinary settlement showcases the resourcefulness and determination of the communities that thrive in this exceptional environment. The name “GANVIE” translates to “We Survived.”
GANVIE
The origin of Ganvie can be traced back to the 17th century, when it became a sanctuary for the Tofinu people. The people of Ganvie flew from the dangers of the slave traders and the ongoing conflicts, this indigenous group sought refuge on the waters of Lake Nokoué, where they could remain hidden and protected from external threats.
The African Tribe That Built a FLOATING City to Escape Slavery, GANVIE
The Tofinu people knew they had to escape but they had no where to go, they feared the Dahomey warriors. The Dahomey warriors were fierce and unstoppable except for one thing.
There was a powerful belief that the warriors of Dahomey were forbidden to fight on water. Water was considered sacred and believed to be a home for spirits. So the people of Tofinu made a bold decision leaving everything behind including their lands and their homes. They moved to the middle of Lake Nokoue where they found safety.
The creation of this floating village was a brilliant and strategic response to the precarious circumstances they faced. Over the centuries, this innovative way of life transformed into a thriving community, developing its own customs, traditions, and distinctive cultural identity. Today, Ganvie has evolved into a vibrant settlement, with thousands of residents still depending on the lake for their daily sustenance and economic activities.
GANVIE
I’ve long been captivated by Ganvie, so I decided to embark on a journey from Nigeria, traveling by road and crossing borders through the Benin Republic, to witness this floating wonder up close. I was eager to experience the magic of this extraordinary village firsthand, navigating the adventure and fully immersing myself in its unique atmosphere.
Although I’ve read, heard and seen countless images and stories about Ganvie but nothing truly prepared me for the stunning beauty of this floating village. I was engrossed by the rows of wooden homes resting gracefully on the water and their bright colors reflecting off the gentle waves.
Small canoes laden with goods were seen floating slowly as the sounds of everyday life echoed across the water. I sat in the boat with Herman who was my guide for the day, I could hear laughter, conversations and the occasional call of a distant bird drifting across the water.
Ganvie isn’t just a place but also a lively community with a beat that only the locals really understand. The residents of Ganvie have markets, schools, churches and even hotels floating on the water. As I stepped onto the floating dock, my sense of awe grew stronger.
FLOATING VILLAGE
In Ganvie, Canoes serve as the essential means of transportation connecting the various homes, markets and fishing areas throughout the village. Almost every child including young girls has to learn an important skill of rowing a Canoe, because, to visit your friends or to go to school you’ll need a Canoes.
Herman told me it is very important for every family in Ganvie to have a least three Canoes, the first Canoe belongs to the father to go catch fish, the second Canoe belongs to the Mother to go to the market and the last one belongs to the children to go to school or to go get things for their parents.
FLOATING VILLAGE – GANVIE
The major occupation in Ganvie is Fishing, the village’s inhabitants have relied on the lake’s rich biodiversity for centuries, with fishing forming the backbone of their economy. The residents primarily fish for various species of freshwater fish including tilapia, catfish, and perch. Fishing methods are traditional, with fishermen using canoes and hand-crafted nets to catch their haul.
GANVIE – VENICE OF AFRICA
Fishing is not just a daily necessity but also a significant aspect of the village’s culture. The residents have developed unique techniques for navigating the intricate maze of canals that run through Ganvie, making fishing an essential part of the village’s social fabric. One of the techniques is called CASTING FISHING.
The net is thrown into the river and left for about a minute to allow the net go deep down before removing it immediately to catch the fishes.
The fish caught are sold in local markets by the mothers and wives since it is prohibited for men to sell fish in the market at Ganvie. They are either traded within the community or transported by boat to nearby towns and cities for broader distribution. The wealth generated from fishing plays a key role in sustaining the local economy and providing for the needs of the families living in the floating village.
MARKET WOMEN – GANVIEWOMEN IN GANVIECANOES – TRANSPORTATION IN GANVIEGANVIE
The people of Ganvie are hard workers, every single person seen was doing something trying to make a living. Ganvie has been a major source of attraction to Tourists who come here for many reasons, some are drawn by the stunning scenery while others come for the experience to see how people have lived on water for many generations.
TOURISTS IN GANVIE
Although, not all area embraces tourism, other areas do not allow tourists to take pictures or make videos because they believe when pictures or photos are taken it means the people are leaving with their souls.
FLOATING VILLAGE, GANVIE
If you’re interested in history, nature, or simply experiencing something different, Ganvie is a place that will leave you in awe and wonder. If you also ever find yourself traveling through West Africa you should visit Ganvie – Venice of Africa, the extraordinary floating village on Lake Nokoué in Benin offers an experience that is unlike anything else, an experience you should not miss in a lifetime.
GANVIE – VENICE OF AFRICA
Ganvie is not just a remarkable floating village but a testament to the ingenuity, resilience and spirit of its people. It also offers a truly unique window into life in one of the most fascinating corners of Africa.
Would you like to see what Ganvie looks like some time or have you been there before? What was your experience?
Have you ever pictured yourself walking into a house where everything is turned on its head? I mean where the floor becomes the ceiling and the ceiling is now the floor. This surreal experience became my reality when I visited the first upside down house in West Africa, nestled in the vibrant heart of Lagos. I had initially expected it to be a quirky attraction but it transformed into a mind blowing journey that completely reshaped my perception of the world. Join me as I step inside the first upside down house in West Africa, right here in Lagos, where reality gets flipped on its head.
LAGOS CITY – NIGERIA
The sun hung low in the Lagos sky, casting a golden glow over the bustling city as I made my way through the busy streets, the buzz of the city gradually receded into the distance. I have heard of this place before, whispered about in conversations and splashed across social media but nothing could prepare me for the strange and captivating sight that awaited.
The Most Confusing UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West Africa
There it was, the first upside down house in West Africa, a striking architectural marvel that seemed to defy the very laws of gravity. From the outside, it looked like a typical home yet the entire structure was inverted. The roof, windows and even furniture were all positioned as if the world had turned upside down. It was as if someone had taken the ordinary and made it extraordinary with a twist of surrealism.
I walked into the house where gravity seemed to have lost its grip with my curiosity piquing with every step. Believe me, this house is one of the most beautiful things that has happened in the West Africa, it is a first of its kind. The floor or rather, the ceiling above me was covered in what looked like an ordinary living room, complete with a sofa, lamps, and a bookshelf. The furniture seemed to float above and I had to look up to see what would traditionally be below. Honestly, my mind struggled to make sense of it as I tried to grasp how everything seemed just slightly off. The only thing that kept echoing in my head was, “how on earth is this possible?”
THE FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE – LAGOS, NIGERIA.
At first glance, this house makes no sense after stepping into it and another startling revelation was the fact that we entered through the window. Upside down houses have become a global architectural phenomenon, offering a playful and surreal experience where traditional design is flipped on its head. These houses, where floors become ceilings and vice versa, challenge our perception of space and reality.
The upside down is not the first in the world as there are many others like Germany, which is the first widely recognized upside down house located in Trassenheide, it became a major tourist attraction in 2008. We have many others in;Poland, USA, China, South Korea, Canada.
These houses serve as fun attractions, art installations and statements about unconventional design. They invite visitors to see the world from a new angle, proving that sometimes a flipped perspective can inspire fresh ideas and creativity.
The Most Confusing UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West Africa
As I moved from room to room, I marveled at how each space offered a new perspective. The kitchen had dishes that appeared to be glued to the ceiling, while the bathroom had a mirror that seemed to reflect the world from a topsy turvy angle. I couldn’t help but take a few pictures capturing the moment to share with my friends and family knowing fully well that they wouldn’t believe it until they get to see it for themselves.
The fascinating story and daring vision that brought the first upside down house in West Africa to life.
In the early 19th century during a period of significant transformation, a surge of freedom allowed former African slaves to return to their ancestral lands. After gaining their independence in Brazil, they made their way back to the continent that had once been their home, settling in areas such as Lagos Island and Portnovo. These Afro-Brazilians, referred to as Agudas or Saros. They were not just merely returning to their origins but they were building new lives, blending their Portuguese influenced Brazilian heritage with their strong African traditions. Their legacy emerged unexpectedly as they settled in coastal cities, particularly around Lagos Island.
Pedro’s family members were part of these people. Akinseye Pedro was a proud Afro-Brazilian figure, according to legend, Pedro Akinseye was a wise, diligent and trustworthy businessman, skilled in trade and known for his charm. He was one of the lively returnees of the 19th century, beloved and admired by his neighbors and all who encountered him. With a profound understanding of history and culture, his home reflected all that he embodied.
For decades, the house of Akinseye Pedro stood as a silent sentinel over Lagos, its walls steeped in the stories of old Lagosians and the generations of the Pedro clan who called it home. Its roof, weathered yet sturdy, seemed to absorb the spirit of resilience that defined the Eko business community which is a bustling hub of trade, culture, and life. But as time marched on and the city transformed, the old house began to feel the pull of progress. As skyscrapers reached for the skies and Afro-Brazilian homes were torn down to make way for modern developments, it seemed the House of Pedro was destined to fade into history, giving way to the new world that was rising around it.
Yet, Emmanuel Pedro, the grandchild of Akinseye Pedro was not ready to let go of his family’s legacy. Raised on stories of his grandfather’s strength and the perseverance of the returnees, Emmanuel saw the house not just as a building but as a living monument to the past. Determined to preserve his heritage, he set a plan in motion for the house would be moved to the Afro-Brazilian Cultural Centre in Ibeju-Lekki, where it could stand in peace, immortalized as a testament to the past.
THE LEGACY OF AKINSEYE PEDRO
As I was told, the house made its way through the streets of Lagos. Just as it reached Landmark in Oniru, a violent storm descended upon the city. Winds howled and thunder roared as a bolt of lightning split the sky and in that moment of chaos, something extraordinary happened! The house was lifted by the wind, spinning high into the air. Onlookers watched in awe as the storm’s fury seemed to guide the house, flipping it upside down in mid-flight. When the storm subsided and the dust settled, there it was: the House of Pedro was not merely displaced but perfectly inverted and now standing on its roof. The house had fallen.
I heard that the house that collapsed was abandoned, but Emmanuel, Pedro’s grandson, refused to give up. He devised a new plan to restore his grandfather’s home. This explains why everything in the upside down house appeared so contemporary. Today, the House of Pedro is known as the Upside down House which stands proudly within Landmark Lagos, a place of curiosity and wonder for visitors from all corners of the globe.
The Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West AfricaThe Most Confusing FIRST UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE in West Africa
Emmanuel refurbished the house and it explains why there were modern equipment and furniture even the refrigerator which didn’t exist in the 19th century in Emmanuel grandfather’s house. There were different sections of the house which includes the Kitchen, Private sitting room, Master’s bedroom, Dinning room where Papa Akinseye sat to discuss with his friends and family about how he became a successful business man, the rest room where the water closet was upside down and the bathroom where the bathtub was also placed upside down, the children’s room with a cupboard turned upside down and the Auntie’s room. This house has a lot of rooms with three stairs.
The real magic of the upside down house is not just in the structure but also in the way it messes with your mind. The main entrance to the house of Pedro was just in the ground floor, I saw the welcome footmat , the flower vase and as I moved further and I saw Emmanuel’s bicycle placed carefully in the corridor but was also upside down.
EMMANUEL PEDRO’S BICYCLE – THE UPSIDE DOWN HOUSE
I realized many other Tourists from other states and countries travel down to experience and see what this magnificent building really looks like. Booking from Mondays to Sunday is within the range of three thousand naira (3,000 naira) to seventeen thousand naira (17,000 naira), there are different prices for different time slots with respect to the day of the week and demands. The house is opened from the time of 9:00am till 9:00pm in the evening.
Visiting the first upside down house in West Africa was more than just a visit but a reminder that seeing the world from a different angle makes life seem more interesting. I left feeling a little more open-minded, a little more curious about the world and a little more willing to see things from an entirely new perspective.
Would you be interested in seeing this for yourself, or have you visited before? I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments!
Imagine standing on a bustling street as the sun dips below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the city. The air buzzling with excitement and the rhythmic beats of drums echoing from every corner. The streets of Calabar, usually quiet and ordinary are now an explosion of color and sound. Costumed dancers swirl by in a blur of feathers, beads and sequins while the scent of grilled delicacies mingles with the fresh evening air. It really is impossible to stay still. You can feel the pulse of the city in your bones as it comes alive for one of the most anticipated events of the year – Calabar Carnival.
2024 Calabar Carnival Nigeria
The Calabar Carnival is known as one of Africa’s most renowned and vibrant cultural festivals, it is often referred to as Africa’s largest street party. Originating in 2004, it was initiated by the Cross River State government as a way to showcase the rich cultural heritage of the region while boosting tourism and promoting peace. The festival takes place annually in Calabar, the capital city of Cross River State, Nigeria, typically during the last two weeks of December, aligning with the Christmas season.
Donald Duke, former Governor of Calabar
Donald Duke the former governor of Cross River State, Nigeria initiated the Calabar Carnival. His vision for the carnival was to create a cultural and tourism event that would highlight the rich heritage of Cross River State, promote national unity, and bolster the state’s economic growth through tourism. As governor from 1999 to 2007, Duke sought to position Cross River State as a prime tourist destination. The state was rich in cultural diversity, natural beauty and historical landmarks but lacked a major event that could draw attention and tourists both from within Nigeria and Abroad. Donald Duke recognized that to leverage this potential, Cross River needed a cultural festival that could serve as a significant attraction. He envisioned the Calabar Carnival as a world-class event that would showcase cultural diversity, boost tourism and economic development, promote national unity, peace and enhance Nigeria’s global image.
I’ve heard so much about this carnival called Africa’s biggest street party, this festival has been one of those things I couldn’t stop thinking about. “What is it really like? What is the hype really all about?” These questions kept echoing in my mind, so as an avid traveler, I eagerly packed my bag and hopped into the car, embarking on a six hours drive from Delta state to Calabar with the aim to explore and fully immerse myself in the Calabar Carnival which is a cultural extravaganza renowned across Africa. In this article, I will be sharing my own journey through the carnival, what I saw, felt and experienced, as well as how it stirred emotions and sparked deeper reflections on culture and connection. I had vibrant firsthand experiences and a deep exploration of the traditions, culture, and festivities that shape this grand celebration.
CROSS RIVER – CALABAR
As the sun began to set on 27th of December, the streets of Calabar were no longer just roads and sidewalks, they had transformed into a vibrant tapestry of colors, music and energy. The air buzzed with anticipation, as if the entire city was holding its breath, ready to burst into a euphoric celebration. And then, it happened. The first wave of dancers, drummers and performers swept through the streets in a whirlwind of brilliant costumes, infectious laughter and rhythmic beats. I was swept up in the magic of it all. The 2024 Calabar Carnival had officially begun and there was no turning back.
Opening Ceremony – Calabar CarnivalCALABAR CULTURAL CARNIVAL
The festival is an annual event that draws thousands of people from around the world to Calabar, the capital of Cross River State in southeastern Nigeria. What started as a modest local celebration has now become a global cultural phenomenon which features over-the-top parades, live performances, art exhibitions, food festivals, and much more. The 2024 edition was nothing short of extraordinary, offering an unprecedented display of Nigerian creativity, heritage, and unity.
One other thing struck me and it was the amount of effort that went into preparing for the carnival, some of the performers told me it took them about three months to perfect their steps and movements while for some it took them weeks. As the carnival kicked off, the streets of Calabar became an ocean of vibrant costumes and expressive performances. Floats, adorned with intricate designs and glittering lights, rolled through the city, while dancers in dazzling costumes moved with a fluidity that seemed to defy the laws of gravity. It was as though every person, whether on stage or among the crowd, had come together to create one harmonious spectacle of joy.
The WILDEST Street Party in Africa at Calabar Carnival Nigeria
This festival is a month long celebration filled with a lot of activities which includes: Dry Runs, Bikers Dry Run, Cultural Carnival, Kings and Queens Night, Junior Carnival, Main Carnival (Grand Street Parade), Bikers Carnival and Marian Street Party. Most of these events were actually free, for me, I was more interested in the Cultural Carnival and the main Calabar Carnival. I realized there were many other Nigeria cultures I haven’t really heard of in my life even as Nigeria citizen.
The heartbeat of the Calabar Carnival is the Cultural Carnival and it was even more spectacular than I had imagined. As I found my spot along the route, the excitement was palpable as people of all ages gathered, some dancing in the streets while others filmed the spectacle unfolding before them. The music was infectious, blending Afrobeat rhythms with traditional Nigerian sounds and the beats seemed to reverberate through my chest, inviting everyone to move. I watched in awe as dancers from different cultural groups clad in costumes that reflected the rich heritage of Nigeria, swirled past. Each float told a different story, some celebrating the history of Calabar while others were promoting the messages of unity and peace. But what struck me most was the energy of the crowd (complete strangers), all caught in the same ecstatic moment. It was impossible not to smile, to clap along with the rhythm and to be swept up in the collective joy that filled the air.
Africa Largest Street Party – Calabar CarnivalThe WILDEST Street Party in Africa at Calabar Carnival Nigeria
One of the most memorable moments came when a group of young performers, dressed in elaborate masquerade costumes passed by. Their energy was electrifying. As they danced, the crowd erupted in cheers, and I couldn’t help but join in clapping and chanting along with the beat. It felt like I was part of something much larger than just a festival; it was a living, breathing celebration of culture, art and the shared humanity that binds us all.
2024 Calabar Festival
The 2024 Calabar Carnival was more than just a party it was a profound celebration of culture and community. Every performance seemed to carry a deeper meaning, from the traditional dances rooted in the history of the Efik people to the contemporary performances that showcased the richness of Nigerian music and fashion. It was impossible not to be moved by the sheer talent and dedication of the performers, who had put their hearts and souls into their costumes and performances.
This Carnival also brings together people from all corners of Nigeria from Hausa drummers, Igbo dancers, Yoruba masquerades, Efik performances, Zulu performances and many more with each group proudly displaying their heritage. Performers from across Africa and beyond also joined in adding a global flavor to the carnival with each band using their costumes, clothes and performance to tell unique stories inspired by the theme for the year. the Carnival theme for 2024 was “OUR SHARED PROSPERITY.”
2024 CALABAR CARNIVAL2024 CALABAR CARNIVALThe WILDEST Street Party in Africa at Calabar Carnival Nigeria
The costumes of the Calabar Carnival are an integral part of its identity and preparations for these dazzling outfits often begin months in advance. These costumes are not just clothing; they are expressions of culture, creativity, and pride. Every color was chosen with purpose, creating a spectacle that’s both meaningful and unique. Behind every glittering sequined gown, every feathered headdress and every intricately beaded outfit lies a story, stories of heritage, tradition and the innovative spirit of the people of Cross River State.
The music is essential to the atmosphere of the carnival. Weeks before the event, rehearsals are held in various parts of the city, where local drummers, musicians, and dancers come together to practice the rhythms and sounds that will define the festival. The music is a blend of Afrobeat, highlife, traditional drum rhythms, and modern genres, creating a unique soundscape that is unmistakably Nigerian. The beats are a call to action, urging people to get up, move, and be part of the festivities.
It was as if the entire city of Calabar had come alive in a brilliant explosion of color and sound. The parade was not just an event but an experience, a spectacle that engaged all the senses and left everyone breathless with wonder. I could feel the bass of the music reverberate in my chest as it mixed with the sounds of drums, brass bands and infectious Afrobeat rhythms that seemed to rise up from the very streets.
The WILDEST Street Party in Africa
The floats, each one a masterpiece, slowly rolled down the avenue, their vibrant colors gleaming under the golden afternoon sun. Every float was like a canvas of creativity as some were adorned with beautiful fabrics, feathers, and sequins, while others were bold and modern, using intricate designs to tell stories that ranged from the traditional to the contemporary. The effort and attention to detail were evident in every corner, from the shining gold of the intricate beadwork to the giant masks and artistic structures that captured the essence of the carnival’s themes. I could not help but marvel at the creativity that went into each float and the dancers, standing on or around the floats, embodied the themes with an energy that seemed almost supernatural.
The dancers did really great by bringing the carnival to life, they were cladded in glittering costumes made of beads, feathers, and cloth, they moved through the streets in perfect synchronicity, their bodies swaying to the beat of the drums. The costumes themselves told stories from the traditional masquerades, mythological beings to the modern interpretations of Nigerian folklore. Each performer was a living work of art, their costumes moving and shimmering as they danced to the infectious rhythm. The energy was contagious; people along the parade route clapped, sang, and cheered, caught in the magnetic rhythm of the procession. The entire experience felt like being inside a giant, living kaleidoscope, where every step, every movement, every sound was another stroke of vibrant color.
CALABAR CARNIVAL2024 CALABAR CARNIVAL
The atmosphere was electric. The crowds lined the streets, clapping and shouting in celebration, their faces painted with joy. It was impossible to remain still as everyone around me was moving to the beat, caught up in the thrill of the parade. And the music, oh, the music wasn’t just something you heard, it was something you felt in your bones. The drummers led the charge, their rhythms steady and strong, while brass bands added layers of sound that lifted the entire experience to another level. It was as if the parade was a living, breathing entity that drew energy from everyone who participated.
I noticed that, while the core of the carnival was undeniably Nigerian, there was a true celebration of global cultures. Performers from international groups proudly showcased their own dance styles, music, and costumes, blending them seamlessly with the local performances. The energy was infectious, as people from all walks of life joined in, their different cultural backgrounds fusing together in perfect harmony. It was a beautiful reflection of what the Calabar Carnival stands for: unity in diversity.
OUR SHARED PROSPERITY – The WILDEST Street Party in Africa at Calabar Carnival NigeriaCALABAR CARNIVAL
The diversity wasn’t just evident in the performers; it was equally present in the spectators. Locals, tourists, and carnival enthusiasts from all over the world stood side by side, exchanging smiles, dances, and words. It felt like we were all part of one giant family, brought together by the universal language of music, dance, and celebration. There was no division—only joy. The Calabar Carnival had succeeded in uniting people of all races, backgrounds, and nationalities, allowing us to share in this moment of cultural pride and expression.
It made me reflect on how powerful cultural events like this can be—how they break down barriers and foster an appreciation for diversity. Watching people from different parts of the world dancing, laughing, and celebrating together in Calabar reminded me that, despite our differences, we are all connected through our shared love for life, music, and human creativity.
The Main Day: The Calabar Carnival Grand Street Parade
The WILDEST Street Party in Africa at Calabar Carnival Nigeria
It was the main day, the day everyone had been waiting for. This day brings the whole world to Calabar and it is basically what Calabar is all about, the grand parade. I must say, the dedication of the performance was incredible, they danced and worked for hours making their ways through the street of Calabar. When they got to the Stadium in the evening and their energy was still high, they were fueled by the excitement of the crowd.
The WILDEST Street Party in AfricaCALABAR CARNIVAL 2024CALABAR CARNIVAL 2024CALABAR CARNIVAL 2024CALABAR CARNIVAL 2024
After the parade, the true essence of the Calabar Carnival came alive on the streets. The main procession ended, but the party was far from over. Calabar transformed into a giant street party, with music blaring from every corner, live bands playing on makeshift stages, and crowds of people dancing in the streets. It was impossible to walk through the city without being swept up in the infectious rhythm.
The Stadium was the final destination where the band showcased their best performances in front of even larger crowds. What makes Calabar Carnival so special is the sense of togetherness among people from different parts of Africa and the world. It is a major economic boost for the city and even for Nigeria as a whole. For the few days spent there, the streets were filled with tourists, performers and vendors all contributing to the economy one way or the other, many small business owners often claim to make enough sales during the carnival that can sustain them for months.
As I made my way through the crowd, the smell of delicious local delicacies filled the air. Stalls lined the streets, offering everything from pepper soup to grilled fish, fried plantains and Abacha. The flavors were just as vibrant as the colors around me. Locals and visitors alike gathered around these food vendors, exchanging stories and laughter as they savored the incredible dishes that made Cross River State famous.
The atmosphere was electric as everyone was in celebration mode, whether they were dancing, eating, drinking, or simply enjoying the energy around them. The joy was infectious, and it seemed that no one could resist joining in the fun. The streets were alive with the sound of laughter, music and the unmistakable rhythm of the carnival.
While the music may be the heartbeat of the Calabar Carnival, food is its soul. The festival offers a sensory overload, not just with sound, but with the aromas, flavors, and textures that define Nigerian cuisine. The streets of Calabar come alive with an impressive array of local delicacies, served in vibrant stalls that dot the carnival route. Each bite is a reflection of the region’s culinary heritage and its deep connection to the land.
Calabar is known for its rich food culture, which draws influences from the Efik people and other ethnic groups in the Cross River region. As festival-goers walk the streets, the air is filled with the delicious scent of spicy grilled fish, pepper soup, plantains, and local stews. The local food scene during the carnival provides an authentic taste of the city’s culture and history.
The role of food at the Calabar Carnival extends beyond just being sustenance—it is a celebration of the region’s culinary creativity. The street food becomes an integral part of the carnival experience, allowing participants to fuel up while continuing to dance and celebrate. The stalls line the streets, often clustered together around performance areas, creating a festive culinary landscape where people gather, enjoy, and connect over the shared love of food. The interaction between the smells of food, the sounds of music, and the sight of dancers in costumes makes every corner of the carnival a multi-sensory celebration.
As the final beats of music echoed through, I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude and exhilaration. The Calabar Carnival isn’t just a festival; it’s a celebration of life, culture, and the unbreakable spirit of a community coming together. From the vibrant parades to the infectious energy of the crowds, every moment was a testament to the rich heritage and creativity of the people. Leaving the festival, I carried with me not just memories, but a renewed appreciation for the power of unity and celebration. The 2024 Calabar Carnival will forever be etched in my heart, reminding me that sometimes, the best way to experience a culture is to dive right in and dance to its rhythm.
Do you have plans to attend the Calabar Carnival or have you ever attended the Carnival, what was your experience? Drop your comments below!
Growing up like many other Nigerians, I’ve heard different stories about slavery and the slave trade, especially from my parents and my History teachers in school. I was also privileged to see a few movies describing what the victims of slavery went through and what the slave trade was truly like in the 18th and 19th centuries. Even as a child, I wanted to know what the victims went through, how slavery has shaped the world and how it happened here in Nigeria. This curiosity led me to Ikot Abasi in Akwa-Ibom, a state in Nigeria. My decision to go on this journey was not just to see where all these happened but also to reveal the history of slave trade in Ikot Abasi, to explore its local significance, to appreciate the remains of the story and how this chapter of history has been overshadowed by time.
I started my journey in Uyo which is the capital city of Akwa-Ibom, Uyo is one of the cleanest city in Nigeria and it is a city filled with vibrant energy and culture with welcoming people living in it. If you are a tourist planning to visit Nigeria, Uyo is one of the cities you definitely should try spending some time.
In this article, I’ll be uncovering the history hidden in Ikot Abasi, Akwa Ibom State. From the haunting Bridge of No Return, where countless enslaved Africans took their final steps on home soil, to the underground holding compartments that confined the rebellious and the realities of Nigeria’s role in the transatlantic slave trade.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF IKOT ABASI
I left for Ikot Abasi from Uyo, this journey lasted for about two hours. Ikot Abasi is nestled in the heart of the coastal region of Akwa Ibom State. Ikot Abasi is a town that stands as a testament to the dichotomy of time in many ways. Today, it is a peaceful thriving community with markets bustling, children playing on the streets, and fishermen casting their nets along the shoreline. Yet, hidden beneath this calm facade lies a history marked by unspeakable suffering. Ikot Abasi was once a thriving port during the height of the transatlantic slave trade and a central node in the brutal trafficking of human lives.
Ikot Abasi is located in the southeastern part of Nigeria, close to the Atlantic Ocean. Its proximity to the water gave it a strategic advantage, not only for trade but also for its role in the forced transportation of millions of African men, women, and children to distant lands. The town sits on the banks of the Imo River, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. This river provided a natural route for ships to navigate into the heart of the town, making Ikot Abasi a prime location for the transshipment of enslaved people. The river which was once a lifeline for trade, carried with it not just goods, but human cargo who were the victims of the horrific system of exploitation.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, European powers like the British, Portuguese, and Dutch had established footholds along the West African coast, eager to control the trade of African resources including the most coveted one of all: Human Labor. As European demand for enslaved people skyrocketed to fuel the plantations of the New World, especially in the Americas—Ikot Abasi with its access to both the Atlantic and the river quickly became a crucial point in this deadly trade route.
Something else that amazed me was the fact that the old colonial houses built in Ikot Abasi by the colonial masters still looks like it used to be, “the bricks are still the same like they used to be” our tour guide explained, “they had so many workers including those that cooked for them and the slaves, taking care of them” she added. To me, the buildings still gives off a strong colonial vibe.
THE BRIDGE OF NO RETURN: A SYMBOL OF SUFFERING
Getting to this bridge, all I had was this feeling of sadness unfolding like a quiet, heavy fog that slowly creeps in, obscuring the light around me, there was a hollow weight in the pit of my stomach making every breath feel more difficult as I listened to the tour guide narrate some of these sad experiences. At my first sight, I knew this bridge in Ikot Abasi was no ordinary bridge, I was told that if you go through this bridge back in those days you are never coming back again, it must have been dreadful!
I tried to imagine the heart-wrenching moment of bidding farewell to a loved one, fully aware that you are being torn away from them and sold into a life of unthinkable hardship. The victims must have felt this way being separated from their husbands, separated from their wives and kids, young lovers separated and siblings bidding themselves goodbye knowing they’ll never see themselves again.
The Transatlantic Slave Trade: Bridge of no return
The Bridge of No Return was not a traditional structure made of wood or stone. It was more like a term used to describe the river crossing, this bridge of no return was a gateway that signaled the end of hope for the enslaved. As the captured people reached the edge of the river, they were often forced into crude boats that would ferry them across to waiting slave ships. Some of them may have resisted, but their cries for mercy were drowned out by the harsh commands of their captors.
For many, this was the first time they saw the ocean. For some, it would be the last sight they ever saw of their homeland. The Bridge of No Return was, in essence, the last place they stood as free people. Many would never again set foot on African soil, lost forever to the unforgiving labor camps of distant plantations, I listened to the guide patiently with sadness written all over my face, this was more different and tragic than what I had expected and this feeling was more different from how I used to feel whenever I hear such stories from my Mother, my History teachers while in class or seeing them in movies.
Standing on the bridge I could feel the remains of the victims, the echoes of their steps, their pain and their lost hopes. Today, the Bridge of No Return in Ikot Abasi is nothing but a shadow of its former self. These incidents at the bridge might have happened a long time but the memories of those who crossed it linger in the whispers of the wind in Ikot Abasi. There are no grand monuments marking the site, no statues commemorating the lives lost to the transatlantic slave trade. However, the legacy of the Bridge of No Return still lives on in the hearts of the people of Ikot Abasi.
Symbolism of the Bridge:
The significance of the Bridge of No Return cannot be overstated, it is an enduring symbol of the physical and emotional suffering experienced by millions of enslaved Africans. The bridge itself serves as a profound symbol of the severance between the enslaved individuals and their homeland.
The Physical Journey: The bridge marks the final step in the transition from freedom to captivity, as it was the last structure that enslaved individuals crossed before being sold into slavery. Once they crossed the bridge, they were typically loaded onto ships and taken away from Africa, often never to return. The bridge, in this sense, represents the abrupt and irreversible shift from the known to the unknown, from life to death, from autonomy to subjugation.
Emotional Significance: For those who crossed it, the Bridge of No Return was a point of no return in every sense, emotionally, culturally, and physically. Many of the enslaved individuals were torn away from their families, villages, and communities. The separation from loved ones was brutal, as families were often divided, with some members sold off to different parts of the world. The emotional devastation of being separated from one’s homeland, culture, language, and way of life was incomprehensible.The “no return” aspect symbolizes the unspoken tragedy of the enslaved people’s fate. It signifies not only their physical departure but also the complete loss of everything familiar and cherished. It is a reminder of the brutality of the slave trade, which treated human beings as commodities to be bought and sold, with no regard for their personal ties, emotions, or dignity.
The Brutality of Forced Exile: The symbolism of “no return” is especially poignant when you consider that many of the people taken from Africa were likely to have been forcibly removed from their homes, often in chains, and were subjected to horrendous conditions along the way. The bridge stands as a grim reminder of their fate: they were taken across it and thrust into an unfamiliar, hostile world, where they faced untold suffering, abuse, and dehumanization.
The Bridge of No Return is a site that should never be forgotten and a place where history, however painful must be remembered. The stories of those who crossed the bridge are stories of resistance, survival, and resilience. They remind us of the depths of human cruelty, but also the strength of the human spirit. The Bridge of No Return is a testament to both the pain of the past and the resilience of those who endured it.
THE UNDERGROUND HOLDING COMPARTMENT: THE HIDDEN HORRORS
Slavery in Nigeria: Ikot Abasi
Near the bridge was an underground compartment and my curiosity not only made me ask further questions but also to enter not only to have a view but to also to get a sense of what they must have felt entering this compartment. As I stepped into this confinement I was welcomed by the heat coming from this compartment, it was suffocating and I couldn’t stand there for long. I was forced to imagine what it must have been like for the victims. I tried to think of what they must have gone through being locked in that small hot room for days, weeks or even months deprived of sunlight and fresh air. While in the underground compartment, they were completely at the mercy of their captors, with no knowledge of what was to come next.
This confinement was built for about 30 slaves but they fit in about 150 slaves in this place, I also asked why. The Guide made me understand that this underground space was used to confine the most rebellious slaves who resisted and refused to submit, it was a punishment to break their spirit and make them submit to the maters. They were left with two options either to survive or to die after they’ve been forced into this compartment and those who died were thrown into the water, she added.
The darkness of the underground compartment also symbolizes the forced silence that accompanied the brutality of the slave trade. The enslaved were isolated not only from their families and communities but from the world at large. Their cries for help went unheard, their suffering hidden from view. The compartment, therefore, represents the way in which the horrors of the slave trade were buried and concealed from the public eye, allowing the system to function with relative impunity.
The living conditions within the underground compartments were nothing short of horrific. The captives were subjected to extreme overcrowding, with little space to move or breathe which was part of the punishment. A single compartment, no matter how small, could hold dozens or even hundreds of individuals. They were often shackled together in tight groups, preventing any opportunity for escape or even basic movement. The enslaved individuals were typically forced to sit, lie, or crouch in the cramped space, their bodies pressed together, with no room for personal space or dignity.
The underground compartment was a place of immense suffering: physically, psychologically, and emotionally. It was a grim holding pen where human beings were forced into inhumane conditions before being sent on their final journey to slavery. The conditions in these compartments reflect the brutality of the entire system of human trafficking and serve as a lasting symbol of the dark, hidden realities of the slave trade.
THE SLAVES WAREHOUSE
Transatlantic Slave Trade
The Guide made me see the slaves warehouse. “This is where they used to store the slaves, feed them, take care of them before taking them to the bunk” she explained. Slave warehouses in Ikot Abasi, and in other towns along the coast, were holding centers where captured enslaved individuals were temporarily kept before being shipped out. These warehouses were typically fortified buildings, sometimes referred to as “barracoons,” and were located close to the shores to facilitate easy loading onto ships waiting offshore. These locations were designed to hold large numbers of captives who had been forcibly transported from the interior of Africa to the coastal ports.
The captives typically came from various African communities, often after being captured in raids or through trade arrangements with local kingdoms, tribes, or even fellow African rulers. Once captured, the individuals were marched to the coast, sometimes enduring weeks or months of travel through harsh conditions. Upon arrival at the coastal warehouse, they were crammed into overcrowded, unsanitary conditions. Diseases like dysentery, malaria, and smallpox were rampant, and the enslaved people were often shackled together, which made any attempt at escape almost impossible.
These warehouses were places of intense dehumanization and suffering, where enslaved individuals, many of whom had never seen a European before, were stripped of their names, culture, and dignity. Most individuals were kept under heavy guard, subjected to beatings, starvation, and psychological trauma. Family members were often separated, and many would never see each other again.
The slave warehouses in Ikot Abasi and other coastal towns were often run by African middlemen or local leaders but European slave traders played an integral role in the final sale of enslaved people. Coastal towns were hubs for European trade, and European merchants and traders were highly involved in the financial and logistical operations of the slave trade.
KING JAJA OF OPOBO
Jaja of Opobo (full name, Jubo Jubogha 1821–1891)
King Jaja (born Jubo Jubogha) was a prominent figure in the history of the Niger Delta region, particularly the town of Opobo, which he founded. Jaja was initially a slave who was taken from the interior of the Niger Delta and sold to the British. However, he managed to rise to power and became a leader of the Opobo people. Over time, he controlled a significant portion of the palm oil and slave trade in the region.
When the European slave traders brought ships to these coastal ports where they would take possession of the enslaved people for transportation across the Atlantic. The coastal leaders, such as King Jaja of Opobo, were key players in this network. While European powers controlled much of the logistics and shipping, African leaders managed the trade at the local level. These leaders profited from the exchange of enslaved people for goods such as guns, textiles, alcohol, and ironware.
I felt heartbroken and disillusioned when she gave more details on how the slaves were weighed, deep down, I felt really hurt, it was extremely worse than I had thought. “In this space, the slaves were measured, inspected and prepared for sale” she narrated. It reflects the way in which human suffering was normalized and justified for economic gain. The warehouse was a site where the horrors of the trade were made official and commercial, where people were reduced to mere statistics and sold without regard for their lives. These slaves were treated as mere objects to be measured, valued and sold, their lives were reduced to factors like weight, age, and strength which is very disheartening. These individuals were no longer seen as people but as commodities, to be traded for profit.
“Some weighed mirror, palm oil, wrapper, comb or an ordinary dry gin, Back then, it was called TRADE BY BARTER” the Guide explained. She also showed me the slave merchant, King Jaja of Opobo’s office which was very close to the warehouse. Jaja of Opobo would buy these slaves as they were brought in, he bought them and sold them to the whites. Ikot Abasi in those days was called Opobo.
The legacy of the transatlantic slave trade and King Jaja of Opobo is complex. On one hand, Jaja is remembered for his political and economic prowess, his defense of the Niger Delta from European exploitation, and his eventual transformation into a symbol of African resistance. On the other hand, his rise was rooted in the very system that dehumanized millions of Africans, and his wealth was built on exploiting people as commodities.
King Jaja’s reign ended in the early 1880s, following his exile by the British. The British, seeing his power as a threat to their interests, accused him of obstructing their trade policies and violating British sovereignty. In 1887, Jaja was exiled to the West Indies, where he eventually died. The British then took control of Opobo and the surrounding areas.
MARKING THE SLAVES
There was an iron which she called a marker which was used on these slaves the moment it turned very red after heating it up on fire. they did this to give the slaves mark on their back, marks, numbers and names were inscribed on their backs with this same hot iron to identify a slave from the other especially when selling them out. Some die in the process while others survived, those who survived are sold out.
At the Bridge of no Return, the slaves weren’t allowed to look back or turn back to the warehouse again. The people in the business avoided buying or selling pregnant women, they kept them till they gave birth. I was surprised when she told me some Fathers also sold their stubborn children out of the family.
I also stumbled upon a piece of colonial history, Lord Lugard’s permanent residence, who was the British colonial Governor and also played a significant role in Nigeria’s history. The building still stands but not well maintained or preserved.
THE GERMAN BRIDGE
The only way to transport the slaves back then was by boats crossing the waterway and trains because there was no road in Ikot Abasi. The Germans then decided to build a bridge about 200 years ago to make transportation much easier for trading. The German bridge was built over 200 years to improve access to the area and till today it still stands very strong.
THE ABA WOMEN RIOT
The Aba Women’s Riot, also known as the Aba Women’s Rebellion or the Women’s War of 1929, was a significant event in the history of colonial resistance in Nigeria. It took place primarily in the Aba region of southeastern Nigeria, but its effects and participants were widespread throughout the Igbo areas, including parts of the Ikot Abasi region. The colonial government had been increasingly focused on extracting resources from the local populations and imposing taxes. One of the most controversial policies was the introduction of direct and indirect taxation on African subjects.
In the southeastern part of Nigeria, the British had imposed a system of indirect rule, in which traditional rulers were co-opted to govern the people on behalf of the colonial administration. This system was designed to minimize direct British involvement in the administration but relied heavily on the power and control of local leaders, many of whom were eager to please the colonial authorities to secure their own power.
In Ikot Abasi and other areas of southeastern Nigeria, the women’s tax became one of the most controversial policies. Women were subjected to paying taxes based on the British-imposed census. Women had to pay this tax for the right to be counted in the colonial system. However, many of these women did not understand the colonial tax system or were not included in the decision-making processes. They found themselves being taxed without any proper representation or say in the matter, as they were not part of the male-dominated leadership structures of the time.
The tax collectors who were often local men allied with the British were seen as agents of oppression, and their extortionist practices made the taxes feel even more unjust. This imbalance was one of the primary sources of frustration among the women. The Aba Women’s Riot was sparked in November 1929 when a rumor spread that the colonial government was planning to tax women directly, bypassing the traditional roles of men as intermediaries. This idea, which was never officially confirmed, was seen as an insult to the role of women in Igbo society and an affront to the power of local leadership. The rumors reached the Igbo communities in the Abia and Calabar regions, including towns like Aba, Ikot Abasi, and other villages.
The triggering event occurred when women in Aba organized protests in response to a new form of taxation and the increasing British control over the local economy and social structure. They organized in large groups and marched to the British administrative centers to voice their opposition. They confronted the British-appointed Native Chiefs, who were seen as collaborators in the exploitation of the people. The women’s protests quickly turned into full-blown riots as they clashed with colonial authorities.
The women in the Aba area, and surrounding regions like Ikot Abasi, were not only protesting the women’s tax but were also protesting other forms of British colonial exploitation, including the pass laws, which restricted movement and the trading practices that hurt local economies. They were also resisting the overall disrespect for their roles as women, as well as the disempowerment caused by colonial policies.
Key to the protests was the role of women as market traders. In Igbo society, women had traditionally been central to trade and commerce, they were responsible for managing the markets and were an important part of the local economy. The British colonial government, however, sought to control these markets, limiting the autonomy of women traders and imposing high taxes on their goods. This was seen as a direct challenge to the women’s economic independence, leading to widespread resentment.
Women gathered in large numbers, often in the hundreds or thousands, and began marching, chanting, and shouting demands for the end of the oppressive taxation. They engaged in direct confrontations with British colonial officers and Native Chiefs (local leaders installed by the British). These women were not only protesting taxation but also symbolically rejecting the entire colonial system, which had caused immense economic hardship and stripped them of their traditional power.
The revolt was led by women from various ethnic groups, primarily the Igbo, but it also involved women from other parts of southeastern Nigeria. Women leaders like Nwanyeruwa (a famous woman from Aba) became prominent figures during the riot. Nwanyeruwa’s personal grievance against the imposition of taxes led her to gather women in the Aba region. She is often cited as one of the heroes of the revolt for leading the march against the tax collectors. The revolt had a grassroots nature, as the women organized largely without formal leadership. The widespread participation of women in market towns showed the strength of the collective action that took place.
The women were able to organize and protest due to cultural traditions that gave them an important voice in Igbo society, especially in matters of the community’s welfare. These protests were rooted in a sense of traditional justice, which had long been a part of Igbo society. The movement symbolized a break from the colonial system and a reclaiming of power by the women. The women’s resistance was not just political, but also an assertion of their social and cultural identity.
Despite the violence, the Aba Women’s Riot had a significant impact on the colonial administration. It forced the British to re-evaluate their policies regarding taxation and governance. British colonial authorities made some concessions, ending the direct taxation of women and adjusting other policies that were seen as too oppressive. The rebellion also led to a greater awareness of the role that women could play in resistance movements against colonial rule. Women, who had previously been excluded from formal political movements, began to emerge as leaders in anti-colonial activism.
The British colonial forces responded harshly, deploying military troops to suppress the rebellion. There were violent clashes between the colonial forces and the protesting women, with many women killed or wounded. British officers used guns and force to disperse the crowds, and the riot resulted in a significant number of deaths and injuries on the women’s side. The British saw the rebellion as a threat to the stability of their rule, and the military crackdown was severe.
The Aba Women’s Riot was a historic event that demonstrated the crucial role of women in resisting colonial rule. Although the British brutally suppressed the protests, the revolt served as a powerful symbol of resistance and made the colonial government reconsider its policies. In regions like Ikot Abasi, the women’s rebellion echoed broader struggles for autonomy, economic justice, and cultural preservation against the oppressive forces of colonialism. It was a precursor to the later independence movements in Nigeria and remains a significant moment in the country’s colonial history.
THE LEGACY OF ADIAHA EDEM
ADIAHA EDEM
The story of Adiaha Edemini Ikot Abasi is an important and powerful tale of resistance, bravery, and leadership in the face of colonial oppression in southeastern Nigeria, particularly in the area around Ikot Abasi. When the British colonial government was imposing harsh policies on local communities, including unfair taxation, forced labor, and the infringement on traditional rights and authority. The British colonial forces were often backed by local leaders who were loyal to the British, and they used military power and weapons to suppress resistance movements. The use of firearms by hunters and local militia was common in rural communities, and they were often recruited by the colonial authorities to maintain control over the population.
Adiaha Edem, who was a respected leader in the Ikot Abasi area, was known for her wisdom, courage, and role as a defender of the community’s rights and traditions. She stood firmly against colonial policies and worked to protect her people, particularly the women, from the adverse effects of British rule.
One of the most famous legends associated with Adiaha Edem revolves around her encounter with a hunter who represented the oppressive forces of the time.
The breaking of the hunter’s gun by Adiaha Edem has become a legendary act of bravery and defiance that continues to inspire people in the Ikot Abasi and Akwa Ibom regions. The story is often passed down through oral traditions, and it is celebrated in various forms—through storytelling, music, and drama.
Adiaha Edem’s defiance also serves as an important symbol for the empowerment of women in African societies. In many traditional African communities, women played central roles in conflict resolution and community leadership, but their stories often went untold in the larger historical narratives. Adiaha Edem’s courage in the face of colonial force highlights the critical role that women have played throughout history in defending their communities and upholding traditional values.
The act of breaking the gun is a metaphor for resistance to foreign domination and a refusal to allow violence or intimidation to suppress the power of local communities. It embodies the belief that cultural strength and wisdom can overcome the physical violence of oppressors.
The story of how Adiaha Edem broke a hunter’s gun in Ikot Abasi serves as a powerful reminder of the resilience and courage of local leaders in the face of colonial oppression. Through this tale, she is remembered as a symbol of resistance, a matriarch who stood up against the forces of tyranny and sought to protect her people from harm. The breaking of the gun became a legacy of empowerment, illustrating that the power of tradition, unity, and spiritual strength was stronger than the tools of violence and colonial authority.
The story of Ikot Abasi is not one of a singular event or hero but rather a long history of suffering, resilience, and resistance. The town’s history with the slave trade serves as a stark reminder of the dehumanizing effects of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade, but also the resilience and agency of the people who lived there. It is crucial to confront this “ugly history”—not to perpetuate the pain, but to understand its far-reaching consequences on local communities and the world at large. The legacy of resistance, exemplified by figures like Adiaha Edem, offers a powerful narrative of defiance and hope, one that transcends the horrors of slavery and colonialism.
Ikot Abasi’s involvement in the slave trade represents a chapter that must be remembered in its full complexity. While it is easy to focus on the brutality of the period, we must also recognize the strength, resilience, and leadership of the people who lived through it. Their stories of resistance, survival, and cultural preservation are critical in shaping a modern understanding of the complexities of African history. Today, Ikot Abasi stands not only as a place marked by its painful past but also as a symbol of enduring strength and cultural survival that continues to inspire future generations.
Senegal, a beautiful country of West Africa, is a country that blends rich culture, vibrant history, and breathtaking landscapes. Senegal is known for its warm hospitality—referred to as “Teranga”—Senegal offers experiences that few other destinations can match.
But here’s something that might surprise you: Senegal is often considered the most expensive country in Africa. From pricey accommodations to high transportation costs, traveling here can stretch your budget more than you might expect.
When I decided to visit Senegal, I wanted to uncover the reasons behind its reputation as Africa’s most expensive country while experiencing its culture and beauty firsthand. In this article, I’ll take you through my journey—exploring iconic landmarks, indulging in local cuisine, and diving into the country’s rich history—all while sharing tips to help you plan your trip more affordably.
The Airport Experience
Landing at Blaise Diagne International Airport was my first taste of Senegal’s reputation for being pricey. The airport itself is modern and well-maintained, reflecting the country’s growing infrastructure. However, getting to Dakar, the capital city, was an eye-opener.
Taxis from the airport to Dakar typically cost around $100 USD, a hefty price compared to other African countries. As I sat in the cab, the journey offered a preview of Senegal’s charm—beautiful coastal views, bustling towns, and a mix of modern and traditional architecture. Despite the steep fare, I was excited to see what the city had to offer.
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Accommodation in Dakar
Finding a place to stay in Dakar was another challenge. Hotels in the city often start at $200 per night, even for mid-range options, which was well beyond my budget as a non-luxury traveler.
After some research, I opted for an Airbnb that cost $70 per night—a more affordable choice that didn’t sacrifice comfort. The Airbnb was cozy, equipped with a comfortable bed, a small kitchen, and Wi-Fi. It was located in a safe neighborhood, which made it a great base for exploring Dakar.
Staying in an Airbnb not only saved me money but also gave me a glimpse into local life. The host was friendly and provided helpful tips on navigating the city, including where to find affordable meals and hidden gems off the tourist path.
Exploring Dakar
African Renaissance Monument
Visiting the African Renaissance Monument was one of the highlights of my time in Dakar. Towering at 49 meters (160 feet), this bronze statue is the tallest in Africa, and its grandeur is impossible to miss. It depicts a man, woman, and child, with the man pointing toward the Atlantic Ocean—a symbol of Africa’s strength, unity, and hope for the future.
The journey to the monument begins with a steep climb up a set of stairs, which offers incredible photo opportunities along the way. At the base of the statue, I learned about its construction and the controversies surrounding its cost and design. But what struck me the most was the museum inside the monument.
The museum showcases Senegal’s rich history and culture, from its fight for independence to its contemporary achievements. One of the most memorable parts of the visit was taking the elevator to the top of the statue. The panoramic views of Dakar from up there are breathtaking—you can see the city stretching out to meet the vast Atlantic Ocean.
Trying Senegalese Food
After exploring the African Renaissance Monument, I couldn’t leave without trying one of Senegal’s most famous dish, Rice and Onion Sauce.
I also tried Baobab juice, a drink made from the fruit of the baobab tree, known locally as the “Tree of Life.” It was sweet, tangy, and incredibly refreshing—perfect for Dakar’s warm weather. Both the food and drink gave me a deeper appreciation for the Senegalese culinary tradition, where every bite feels like a story.
Visiting Gorée Island
Historical Significance
A short ferry ride from Dakar took me to Gorée Island, a place steeped in history and emotion. The island, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a major center for the transatlantic slave trade. While its colorful colonial buildings and serene environment may seem picturesque today, Gorée Island holds a painful past that must never be forgotten.
goree island
The island served as a transit point where enslaved Africans were held before being shipped across the Atlantic. It stands as a symbol of resilience and a reminder of the human cost of the slave trade.
One of the most poignant moments of my visit was walking through the House of Slaves, a museum that preserves the history of the slave trade. The rooms are small and dark, and you can almost feel the weight of the suffering that once filled those walls.
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The Door of No Return, a small doorway leading out to the sea, was particularly impactful. It was through this very door that countless enslaved Africans were taken to the ships, never to see their homeland again. Standing there, I couldn’t help but imagine the fear and despair they must have felt.
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Exploring Gorée Island was both heartbreaking and enlightening. It’s a place that forces you to confront history while celebrating the strength of those who endured unimaginable pain. Despite its tragic past, the island also radiates hope—its people have turned it into a site of remembrance and learning.
The Desert of Lompoul
Reaching the Desert
The journey to the Desert of Lompoul felt like an adventure from the very start. Leaving the busy city of Dakar behind, the landscape gradually transformed from greenery and scattered villages to golden stretches of sand. The desert itself is smaller than others in Africa, but its beauty is unmatched.
When we finally arrived, the first thing that struck me was the calmness—just endless sand dunes shimmering under the bright sun. The golden tones of the sand seemed to stretch infinitely, blending into the horizon.
Desert Camp Experience
The camp we stayed in was a collection of traditional tents, simple but comfortable, nestled among the dunes. The experience cost around $50 (ECOLODGE Camp), which included the overnight stay, dinner, and breakfast. The camp had a rustic charm, and the staff were incredibly welcoming, ensuring every guest felt at home.
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As night fell, the desert came alive with music and dance. Local musicians played traditional instruments while we sat around a fire under the stars. The rhythm of the music, combined with the cool desert breeze, made it an unforgettable evening. It was a perfect mix of culture and tranquility.
Camel Ride and Sunset
The next day, I had the chance to go on a camel ride across the dunes. It was my first time riding a camel, and though the ride was a little bumpy, the experience was incredible. As the camel moved slowly across the sand, it gave me time to soak in the vastness of the desert.
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The highlight of the trip was the sunset. Watching the sun dip below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, was breathtaking. The entire desert seemed to glow in the soft light, creating a scene straight out of a dream.
Journey to Saint-Louis
The Drive
The journey from Lompoul to Saint-Louis took about 2 hours, but the scenic drive made the time pass quickly. I had a glimpses into rural Senegalese life.
As we approached Saint-Louis, the iconic Faidherbe Bridge came into view. This impressive iron structure, designed by Gustave Eiffel’s company, is the gateway to the island city. It’s not just a functional structure—it’s a symbol of Saint-Louis’s colonial past and its enduring connection to the mainland.
Exploring the City
Saint-Louis, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a city rich in history and culture. Its streets are lined with colorful colonial-style buildings, complete with wooden balconies and intricate ironwork. Walking through the city felt like stepping into a living museum.
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The Faidherbe Bridge itself is a symbol of the city’s colonial past, connecting the mainland to the island of Saint-Louis. It’s an engineering marvel that adds to the city’s historic charm.
The city itself has a laid-back vibe. Unlike the hustle and bustle of Dakar, Saint-Louis moves at a slower pace, giving you time to absorb its history and culture. I took my time wandering the narrow streets, admiring the mix of French colonial influence and Senegalese traditions.
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While exploring, I also heard stories about Saint-Louis being a departure point for migrants. Its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has made it a starting point for many attempting the perilous journey to Europe, particularly Spain’s Canary Islands. These stories added a layer of complexity to the city—on one hand, it’s a place full of history and beauty; on the other, it’s a city tied to the hopes and struggles of those seeking a better future.
Travel Guide to Senegal: Why You Should Get It
Traveling to a new country can be an exciting yet overwhelming experience, especially in a place as dynamic as Senegal. Whether it’s my Tour Guide Contact, navigating transportation, finding affordable accommodations, or deciding what to eat, planning a trip can quickly become a daunting task. That’s exactly why I created this comprehensive travel guide to Senegal—to make your journey easier, more enjoyable, and stress-free.
What’s Inside the Travel Guide?
This guide is not just a collection of tips; it’s a carefully curated roadmap based on my firsthand experience traveling through Senegal. Here’s what you’ll find:
Where to Stay:
Recommendations for hotels, Airbnbs, and budget-friendly accommodations in Dakar, Saint-Louis, and other cities.
Tips on choosing the best neighborhoods to stay in for safety, convenience, and cultural immersion.
Transportation Made Simple:
Detailed advice on how to get around, from taxis and buses to car rentals.
Cost breakdowns and tips to avoid overpriced options like the $100 taxi fare from the airport.
Must-Visit Destinations:
A list of top attractions, including the African Renaissance Monument, Gorée Island, Saint-Louis, and the Desert of Lompoul.
Insider tips on the best times to visit and how to avoid crowds.
Local Food and Dining:
A foodie’s guide to Senegalese cuisine, including where to try Thiéboudienne (Jollof rice) and Baobab juice.
Recommendations for restaurants, street food spots, and markets.
Cultural Etiquette:
A guide to understanding Senegalese customs and traditions to help you connect with locals.
Important do’s and don’ts to show respect and avoid misunderstandings.
Hidden Gems:
Lesser-known places to explore, like secret beaches and vibrant local markets.
Unique activities, such as attending a traditional music event or visiting artisan workshops.
Why You Should Get This Travel Guide
Save Time: Instead of spending hours researching and piecing together information, this guide gives you everything you need in one place. It’s like having a personal travel assistant!
Save Money: Learn how to avoid overpriced options and find budget-friendly alternatives. From accommodations to dining and transportation, this guide will help you get the most value for your money.
Avoid Stress: With step-by-step advice and detailed recommendations, you can focus on enjoying your trip instead of worrying about logistics.
Authentic Experiences: Discover the heart of Senegal beyond the typical tourist spots. This guide connects you to the culture, people, and hidden treasures that make Senegal truly special.
Designed for Everyone: Whether you’re a solo traveler, a couple, or a family, this guide has tips and advice tailored to your needs.
Senegal is a country full of beauty, history, and culture. From the busy streets of Dakar to the quiet charm of Saint-Louis, the emotional visit to Gorée Island, and the peaceful Desert of Lompoul, every moment was special.
It is true that Senegal is not cheap. From the $100 taxi from the airport to the cost of food and places to stay, things can add up fast. But everything I saw and experienced made it worth it. The food, like Thiéboudienne and Baobab juice, was full of flavor. The people, from the friendly artisans in Saint-Louis to the guides and locals I met along the way, were kind and welcoming.
Senegal is a place that stays with you. Its history, its people, and its beauty make it a country like no other. If you ever have the chance to visit, I would say, go. It is a trip you will never forget.